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Kin Travel: Kenya

A visual journey through the Masai Mara

By Dave Krugman

February 12^th, 2020

Why I travel with Kin

I've been lucky enough to travel to some of the most beautiful parts of the world- but travel is so much more than a destination. It's how you experience a place, who you are with, who you are meeting, and how you are moving through the environment. Just as travel can leave a big imprint on who you are as a person, you also leave an imprint on the communities you are moving through. Kin focuses on making sure that impact is a positive one.

Kin Kenya safari is bucket-list journey with pioneering conservationists and legacy outfitters: Cottars 1920s Camp. It's just 14 guests in a 7800-acre community-owned conservancy, with game drives guided by local warriors and rangers from a Conservancy Camp in the heart of an elephant corridor. By night, we relaxed and recharged in the gorgeous tented villas and bush baths of 1920s Camp.

If this is something you think you'd like to experience for yourself, they have upcoming group trips in Kenya in October 2020 and February 2021 and new dates for Wyoming, India, Indonesia, Jamaica and others coming soon. Inquire at kin.travel/inquire

The Masai Warrors

We were guided by people deeply connected to this land. Their lineage stretches back thousands of years into this great expanse. Their ability to track animals seemed almost supernatural, and through their efforts we were able to witness some amazing moments unfolding in the natural world. One of the most memorable in my mind is when we were able to locate this female Leopard, right as she dragged a wildebeest into a tree to prevent scavengers from stealing her meal. I had never seen such primal power in such close proximity. We sat in our truck for well over an hour and watched the scene unfold.

A rare Rhino

One animal they told us we may not be able to see is the African Rhino. Sadly they are relentlessly targeted by poachers for illegal trade, and their numbers have fallen to precipitously low levels. In the great distances of these rolling hills, it can be nearly impossible to locate this animal. Fortunately our guides never gave up, and one day we were able to observe one of these gigantic animals at a small watering hole.

Our guide, Makko, pointed out this Rhino to us towards the end of a long afternoon of driving. Hushed excitement gave way to silent awe as the scene unfolded in front of us.

A team effort

Here is a group photo of the amazing Masai Warriors that guided our entire journey from the moment our plane touched down on the dirt runway. Their guidance and friendship made this trip an absolute dream come true.

Elephants on the move

Elephants have to cover large amounts of territory to find food, water, and room to roam. We found them scattered across the landscape in small family groups. They were curious but wary of our vehicles and presence, so we kept our distance and used long lenses to get closer shots. These animals were majestic, and a reminder of what is at stake when we talk about conservation of these lands and animals.

The local school and people of the Masai Mara

Kin is always forming partnerships with local communities so that tourism dollars flow directly to the people in the area. A portion of the money you spend on this trip goes to installing water filters in this local school. In fact, all their tourism spending propels the community-owned conservancy and the livelihoods and economy it has enabled through the protection of wildlife. Kin also offsets the carbon footprint of the entire journey and engages travelers in driving key initiatives - such as growing a female ranger force or empowering girls through access to education.

Arrival at Cottars Camp

Our stay at Cottars is one I will never forget. The level of comfort didn't even seem possible this far removed from the city life. Grand spaces, beautiful design, cozy furniture, and fire lit common spaces. Even hot water showers heated by wood fires, homemade meals sourced from local ingredients, massages and bush baths- a true slice of eden in a pristine natural environment.

Connecting under a Sacred Tree

The cathedrals here are of natural construction- nature itself is the architect of sacred spiritual spaces. This ancient tree was the centerpiece of our Conservancy Camp, and we gathered around a bonfire to hear stories of this land and learn traditional dances and songs from our Masai guides. One tradition is seeing who can jump the highest, in order to prove ones strength. We all jumped as high as we could, but it was never as high as the warriors. As sparks flew upwards like spirits from the embers, we basked in the warm glow of each others companionship.

Under the light of the moon

Whenever I travel, I always find myself gazing at the moon. It's like a celestial anchor, rooting us in the same reality, no matter from where on earth we are watching. To gaze up and know that others around the world are looking at the same thing makes me feel deeply connected to the global community, of which we are all a small part.

The Lodge at Cottars

Though we opted for the luxurious tents, Cottars also has an incredible lodge you can stay at, with grand rooms, sweeping views, and even an infinity pool. I loved the light in these spaces and used it to do an impromptu fashion shoot with my friend Evangelia.

Bush craft, and the ancient art of fire

We take fire and warmth for granted these days. But there weren't always lighters for 50 cents and electric heat to stave off the chill of long nights. Our guides were kind enough to share their techniques with us. Turns out Zebra poop is great kindling, and the heat from the friction of a spinning dowel is enough to ignite the first breaths of a roaring fire.

Sunset on the drive home

As we drove back to camp after a 12 hour day of exploring, the skies exploded into one of the most stunning sunsets I have ever seen. We stopped the car to make a few images and bask in the colorful heat of the last breaths of daylight.

Lions and Lionesses

No Safari would be complete without these majestic felines making an appearance. I've only ever seen them in nature shows and maybe at the zoo- either way, nothing could prepare me for this encounter. Their calm strength is obvious, even as they lay in the shade and rested, their eyes were scanning, hyper-aware of all that occurred around them. Just when we thought things couldn't possibly get more interesting, three cubs emerged from the brush. Luckily I had a 200mm lens and could get really close for the visuals without disturbing the group.

A family of Cheetahs

Cheetahs are famously the fastest land animals, achieving speeds of 65-75 MPH at full clip. Fortunately the ones we encountered were more interested in resting, which made for some stunning poses and cute moments between a mother and her cubs. To see these animals in their natural environment was a privilege I won't ever take for granted.

Learning from the Warriors

Back at camp, we turned some downtime into lessons about traditional weapons and hunting techniques employed by the native peoples of this land. Bows, clubs, and spears were explained and we all took our turns trying to hit static targets. Our guides made it look easy, but when we took things into our own hands, the targets seemed rather easy to miss.

Visiting a local village

The local villagers live in ways that we would consider more humble, mud huts for permanent shelter and wood fires to heat the interiors. The windows are barely there to keep them invisible by night, and the interiors are often smoke filled from cooking. While the Masai might lack what we consider modern amenities, they certainly don't lack the more important things- community, connection, and family support. We visited this local village and we were able to purchase handmade items like blankets and jewelry. That money helps to support their group here in the Masai Mara.

The Masai Mara

This land was so expansive and full of life that it almost felt like we were visiting another planet. Maybe it was the fact that we were so far from home, or the fact that so much of what we saw was completely fresh to our eyes- but no matter the perspective we took, I felt entirely transported. Here are some more of the animals we were lucky enough to encounter during our trip.

The Calm of Camp

These days were long, bumpy excursions into the wilderness. Having a camp to come back to was a beautiful way to end each day. Absolute calm permeated our little corner of the forest. Animals wandered through with abandon, unconcerned about the guests in their natural landscape. We were able to connect with our fellow travelers and have deep conversations about our experiences.

Sundowners

Cottars has a vintage Rolls Royce for special trips out for sunsets. On our last night, we drove out into the hills, had champagne, and reflected on everything we had witnessed. One thing I know for sure is that it won't be my last time visiting this part of the world. This experience changed me forever and if you ever get the chance to experience it for yourself, I'm sure it will change you too. Thank you to Kin Travel for the experience, Brian Jones for the vision, Calvin and the whole Cottars family for the hospitality, and our local guides for their inclusion. I cannot express my gratitude in words fully, so hopefully these pictures will suffice.